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PLA vs PETG: which should you buy?
The two filaments that cover nearly everything. What each is actually good at, where PETG is worth the extra difficulty, and why PLA is still the right default.
Between them, PLA and PETG cover the overwhelming majority of home 3D printing. Choosing between them is mostly a question of where the part will live and what will happen to it.
The short version
- PLA if the part sits indoors and is not load-bearing. Easiest to print, sharpest detail, cheapest, no enclosure needed.
- PETG if the part will be handled roughly, needs to flex without snapping, or will get warm — a car, a window sill, near a heat source.
If you are new, start with PLA. Learn the machine on the forgiving material.
Where PLA wins
PLA is stiff, dimensionally stable, prints at low temperatures without an enclosure, and bridges and overhangs beautifully. It gives the crispest surface detail of the common filaments. It is also the cheapest, and the most widely stocked, so the per-kilo price is usually the lowest on the page — see PLA ranked by £/kg.
Its weakness is heat and brittleness. PLA begins to soften around 55 °C, which a parked car exceeds easily on a summer day. It also fails by snapping rather than bending.
Where PETG wins
PETG is tougher, more temperature-resistant (usefully so to around 75 °C) and far less brittle — it bends before it breaks, which is exactly what you want in a bracket or a clip. It is also more chemically resistant and handles moisture and UV better outdoors.
The costs are real but manageable: it strings more, it needs slightly higher temperatures, overhangs are less crisp, and it absorbs moisture noticeably faster. It also sticks to smooth PEI beds too well — use a glue stick as a release layer or print on a textured plate. Compare current prices at PETG ranked by £/kg.
Print settings, roughly
| PLA | PETG | |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzle | 195–215 °C | 230–250 °C |
| Bed | 55–60 °C | 70–80 °C |
| Cooling | Full | Reduced — too much cooling weakens layers |
| Enclosure | No | No |
These are starting points. Every filament is slightly different and manufacturers print a recommended range on the spool — begin there.
What about PLA+?
PLA+ is a toughened PLA: the same easy printing with better layer adhesion and impact resistance. It usually costs a little more and it is generally worth it for functional parts that do not need PETG’s heat resistance. It is not a different material class, and the exact formulation varies by brand. See PLA+ ranked by £/kg.
The honest answer
Most people should keep PLA as the default and a spool of PETG for the handful of parts that need it. Buying PETG for everything because it is “better” means fighting stringing on prints that would have been fine in PLA at two-thirds the price.
Questions people ask
Is PLA or PETG better for 3D printing?
PLA is better for indoor parts that are not load-bearing, and PETG is better for parts that get warm, flex or are handled roughly. PLA is easier to print, gives sharper detail and is usually cheaper. PETG is tougher, less brittle and stays usable to around 75 degrees Celsius, where PLA starts to soften at about 55.
Should a beginner start with PLA or PETG?
A beginner should start with PLA. It prints at lower temperatures, needs no enclosure, strings less and is the most forgiving common filament, so it is the easiest material on which to learn a new printer. Add a spool of PETG later for the handful of parts that need more toughness or heat resistance.
Will PLA melt in a hot car?
PLA will not melt in a hot car but it will soften and deform. PLA begins to soften at around 55 degrees Celsius, a temperature a parked car easily exceeds on a summer day, so PLA parts left on a dashboard warp and sag. Use PETG, which holds up to about 75 degrees, or ASA for car parts.
Is PETG stronger than PLA?
PETG is tougher than PLA but not stiffer. PLA is the more rigid material and fails by snapping, while PETG bends before it breaks, which makes it better for brackets, clips and anything that takes knocks. PETG also resists heat, chemicals, moisture and sunlight better than PLA.
What temperature do you print PLA and PETG at?
PLA typically prints with a nozzle at 195 to 215 degrees Celsius and a bed at 55 to 60, with full cooling. PETG prints hotter, with a nozzle at 230 to 250 degrees and a bed at 70 to 80, and with reduced cooling because too much weakens the layers. Neither needs an enclosure. Start from the range printed on the spool.
Why does PETG string so much?
PETG strings more than PLA because it is stickier and runnier when molten, and because it absorbs moisture from the air faster. Some stringing is normal for the material. Drying the spool, lowering the nozzle temperature slightly and tuning retraction all reduce it, but PETG rarely prints as cleanly as PLA.
Is PLA+ better than PLA or PETG?
PLA+ is a toughened PLA with better layer adhesion and impact resistance than standard PLA, and it prints just as easily. It is a good choice for functional parts that do not need the heat resistance of PETG. It is not a different class of material, and the formulation varies from brand to brand.
Check current prices
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Bed adhesion: what actually works
Glue sticks, hairspray, rafts, brims and expensive surfaces — an honest ranking of what fixes prints coming loose, starting with the free fix that solves most cases.
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Do you need a filament dryer?
Wet filament is real and ruins prints, but a dedicated dryer is not the only answer. How to tell if moisture is your problem, and what to do about it.
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Filament storage: dry boxes, vacuum bags and desiccant
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All 13 guides on filament and printing
Last reviewed 14 October 2026.